Getting a new PC is exciting and a pain. It’s exciting because you get a faster processor, more storage and all the latest stuff even though it’s outdated as soon as it hits your desk. The pain comes with re-installing all of your programs, re-customizing your preferences for programs, applications, and Windows, and transferring data to the new PC.

It can be simplified by using a bootable external drive or something similar and letting it load everything on the new PC. However, if you are like me, you probably had a few problems here and there that couldn’t be found and fixed. So it’s better to start with a clean slate.

I am getting a new PC at the office and my hard drive crashed on my laptop. There’s nothing I can do about the laptop, but I kept it simple since it’s a supporting computer rather than the main PC. I often used a remote application to connect to my desktop from the laptop. Therefore, the laptop had few loaded programs and data. I did try to make a backup of my user profile before the crash, but it was having too many problems and the backup didn’t happen.

As for my work PC, here are the steps I took to prepare for moving to a new computer.

* Ensured all my work was on the network server. I kept backups of important files on the hard drive as a safety measure after my past experience.

* Deleted everything that I put on the hard drive.

* Made backups of data files such as the password manager’s file.

* Took a screen shot of my Windows desktop, so I can rearrange things on the new PC to closely match the way I had things on the old PC.

* Used Belarc Advisor to create a print out of what’s loaded on the machine.

* Changed my password to a temporary one that’s nothing like my original so support could get in when I wasn’t at my desk.

* Copied the properties of specially-made shortcuts like the one I use to lock the computer with one click.

* If you use Outlook, make notes of your preferences and options. Mine didn’t get transferred.

* If you use the Office toolbar (typically on the side or top of the screen), add the programs and folders back in based on the screen shot you took earlier. I could not remember how to change the icons in the toolbar, so here’s how: right-click on the icon you wish to change, select Properties, and Change Icon.

* Print the list of fonts loaded on your computer if you’ve added additional fonts.

I sat on this entry for almost a week to see if I thought of anything else. Add a comment if I missed something.

In Keyboard and Mice Talkback, I talked about my need for a new keyboard and mouse pair because my keyboard died (R.I.P.). The Logitech set worked well for me and I would not have minded replacing it with another. However, I decided to open the door for your experiences as I like to keep an open mind. If I didn’t, I’d be working on outdated stuff and living in the dark ages.

I didn’t have to make a decision after all! woot! made it for me when it posted the Microsoft Wireless Optical Elite Keyboard and Mouse for sale. I’ve been using it for several weeks.

I love it! It’s not perfect, however. It has one flaw, but the keyboard and the wheels are so smooth, that I am learning to live with its flaw. It omits letters I type from time to time. Thank goodness for spell checker, but I don’t always remember to run it or proof my work as you know you can’t completely rely on it.

I’ve tried fresh batteries, resetting the keyboard, searching the Web and Microsoft’s Web site for answers and can’t get it to stop omitting letters. Yes, the receiver is close… so close, the keyboard and receiver can smell each other.

Other than that, it’s a comfortable keyboard and I actually make use of the shortcut buttons. It comes with five buttons you can program to go wherever you want… open a program, a Web site, email application. Music lovers will appreciate the media management section at the top-center of the keyboard. It has the typical play, stop, pause, louder, softer, mute, rewind, and fast forward buttons.

Since it is a Microsoft product, it comes with buttons for My Documents, My Pictures, My Music, and Messenger. Of course, you can changes these. In fact, I changed Messenger to open Trillian instead.

Right by the tilt wheel on the keyboard is the back and forward buttons. Instead of moving your mouse to the top left of your browser to go back and forward through Web pages, you can use these buttons. Those who prefer to minimally rely on mice would appreciate this keyboard.

Ctrl+C, Ctrl+X, and Ctrl+V are commonly used keys for copy, cutting, and pasting. If you can’t remember that, the keyboard has *Cut on the front side of the X key. Same goes for C, V, B (bold), U (underline), I (italic), F (find), and A (all).

Most of the function (F) keys have a dual purpose. F1 is the standard for Help. It also has Help imprinted on the key. I frequently use Shift+F7 in word to use the thesaurus. When the F keys are turned off, hitting F7 means replying to an email. Other F keys have undo, redo, new, open, close, forward, send, spell, save, and print.

The set of keys between the main keys (the letters, numbers) and the numbers only key is where the Home, End, Delete, Insert, Page Up, and Page Down keys live. Microsoft did a smart thing and dumped the Insert key. I NEVER used it and yet, I hit it by accident all the time and had to do an Undo to get my letters back. My work computer has Insert and I still hit the darn thing.

The keyboard has two column instead of three. On the first is Home and Delete (taking up the space of two keys). The second column has End, Page Up, and Page Down. Logitech also has a keyboard with the same layout, so it’s not a Microsoft problem. I have not been able to get the hang of this set of keys. Maybe it doesn’t help that I’m using a different keyboard at the office (getting a replacement is not an option).

The wrist rest is soft and smooth. Logitech’s wrist rest (try saying that out loud five times and fast) was cheap plastic and cold. The mouse wheel moves like buttah and can be tilted left and right.

I’m delighted with the purchase especially for the price. Despite being called the Evil Empire and all that, I gotta give Microsoft credit for having a nice product whether it made it or bought it from another manufacturer and slapped its name on it.

The process of adding USB 2.0 ports took no time and the backup system is mighty fast. If you add USB 2.0 ports with a PCI port card, then you’ll still have your USB 1.1 ports, so whatever is plugged into those can stay.

Rob Foster from the UK sent me a port PCI USB card since he had a few extras. Thanks again, Rob. When installing hardware or devices, most situations require loading the software FIRST before doing anything else. This one didn’t – so be sure to check this out before attempting to put the card in. Before starting the process, be sure you have an open PCI slot , a standard slot that has one big connector with a small one behind it.

Turn off the computer, if it is not already. Take off the CPU case. How this is done depends on the CPU. If you lost or misplaced the manual, I’m sure your computer manufacturer has info online. Google it, if needed. Slide the PCI card into the open PCI slot.

At this point, you can cover up the CPU, but some people leave it off until turning on the computer and checking all is OK. When turning on this little feller, it found the new card right away and worked. I didn’t even have to run the software. The card came with four USB ports, one of which holds the backup system. It took under two hours to back up the computer (get size), faster and easier than the tape back up.

Well, it only took a year or so to get around to adding the USB 2.0 ports as that’s about how long the back up system has been sitting here taunting me.

Here’s a faster way to lock a workstation without going through the CTRL+ALT+DEL route.

On the desktop (Window+M), right-click an empty area and select New > Shortcut.

Copy and paste the following into the location box:

rundll32.exe user32.dll,LockWorkStation

Name the shortcut “Lock workstation” or whatever you prefer and click Finish. Click on it and the PC stands guard until you return and enter the correct password.

Thanks, Martin, for the reminder that rundll32.exe is already in the path.

Andrew Coates wrote in, “Firstly, I’m not totally sure how creating an icon is any easier than the ALT+CTRL+DEL option. Pressing those keys then hitting space I would say is more often then not going to be quicker than finding your desktop and clicking on an icon. However, if you are looking for a quicker way to lock your computer. Perhaps you should try Windows + L.”

I responded to Andrew saying the ALT+CTRL+DEL option requires selecting Lock Workstation. Since we have to lock our workstation so often, I find clicking an icon faster. However, the Windows+L will work for keyboard fans.

Update: I checked Windows+L and it didn’t work on my work computer.

From Stuart S.:
Right-click on the shortcut icon and click Properties. There create a shortcut key to invoke the shortcut. I use F4.

I’ve done stupid things to my computer, things I would never admit. But I’ve also saved its life and dealt with accidental reformatting (not my fault!). Every PC is different like our fingerprints. We customize options, install applications, remove default settings and do different things to it. So, a solution may not be the same for two PCs experiencing the same problem. This means trying out various workarounds and fixes.

I rarely have trouble addressing the problems I run into with my PC. If I can’t do it, then I go to the other pro in the house whose job relates to tech support. Usually between us, the problem gets solved. On rare occasions, we call the manufacturer. Still, we find found in the book tips that we hadn’t tried. Others in our shoes might find it useful as well and if someone comes to us asking for help, we can loan them the book when we can’t assist.

Throughout the book the authors share horror stories, which are good teaching tools so you can learn the lesson from someone else’s mistake and avoid making your own. Not only are computers covered, but also PDAs, cell phones, digital cameras and scanners. This is a well-rounded book with coverage on theft, backup and recovery, viruses, spam, junkware and fraud.

If you’re not into techie things, but want to keep your computer healthy–the book won’t bore you. Quite the opposite, as the authors write with humor and down-to-earth feel. An example: after attempting to rescue a hard drive which continues to sputter, try the “defibrillator” method. It states to unplug the computer and remove the computer’s cover, and then “yell ‘CLEAR!’” and lightly tap the face of the hard drive. How can you not like a book with stuff like that?

The authors clearly explain networking and wireless networking. Anyone befuddled by such topics will appreciate the book for those chapters alone. Some problems have simple answers such as, “Is the monitor turned on?” Hearing this from tech support might be embarrassing, but the authors don’t talk down to anyone whether or not a solution is super easy or complex.

The sections use a handwriting style font adding to the book’s friendly nature and engaging writing style. It feels like a buddy helping you figure out the problem or having your own personal support person nearby. In addition to hardware and software troubles, the book includes advice for being proactive such as how to avoid spam and junkware and evade fraud and identity theft.

The text is easy to scan for quickly finding things, the contents are well-organized with topics covering almost everything we deal with when it comes to gadgets. When we hit a roadblock, it’s painful and frustrating. You can rely on the book to get you through any situation without the attitude that we sometimes face when we ask for help.

Title: Surviving PC Disasters, Mishaps, and Blunders
Author: Jesse Torres and Peter Sideris
Publisher: Paraglyph Press
ISBN: 1932111980
Date: January 2005
Format: Paperback
Pages: 416
Cover Price: USD: $19.79
CDN$: 30.79
UK£: 15.61

My cordless keyboard is dying a slow death (Actually, it died. I plugged it back in to try something and it would not spill out any letters or numbers.). I changed the batteries and everything… reset the keyboard and its charging base. The keyboard still tunes in and out as its pleases causing me t tpe stff lke ths. Right now I am on a keyboard with a cord and I am still using the cordless mouse as it works fine.

I would like to replace it with a keyboard and mouse set, but with an ergonomic mouse. I don’t like the ergo keyboards. I tried one (Paul loves it), and my hands became finger-tied. I researched through Google and Consumer Reports, but came up empty. Even the big computer magazines don’t have much of a comparison of keyboard / mouse combos.

I also use rechargeable batteries in the mouse. Funny, I use regular batteries for the keyboard and it lasts for months, but not for the mouse.

So I went to Lockergnome readers for input. I asked if they have had a good experience with a combo that also has a ergo mouse? Or a bad one that I absolutely should avoid? I’ve gathered a few opinions so now I am publishing them so others who are searching for quality cordless desktops have something to help make a decision.

I’ve been using Logitech’s keyboard and mouse set. Not sure what model as the back of all three accessories don’t indicate it. I’ve used it for a long time and have been happy with it. The only thing I didn’t like was the plastic wrist rest. I’d like to replace it with a softer one.

I am not much into customizing the buttons. So it’s not an important feature. A scrolling wheel is a must. If I can’t get an ergo mouse, that’s OK.

Read on for reader responses…

Paul (not my husband) writes:

You couldn’t GIVE me a mouse after using a trackball. The only things I have to move are my fingers, not my wrist, arm, etc. I agree that a scroll wheel is a big advantage and the Logitech TrackMan Wheel that I have moves the ball to the thumb in order to provide it. I’m not just as accurate with my thumb, though. However, there are other trackballs that provide the best of both worlds — a middle button option to pop-up a scroller onscreen.

But mice vs trackballs? Fageddaboudit!

And wired, not wireless…

Nikolas says:

I to use the Logitech Cordless Mx Duo and I love it.. I’ve had it for almost 3 yrs and no problems at all ..it also beats out all the other brands by far…I love it

From Joan:

I haven’t used a wireless keyboard and now use my laptop most of the time, but I am a mouse hater and love touchpads and use an Adesso keyboard with built in touchpad on my desktop. I see they are coming out with a wireless version but also have wireless keyboards with mice. Here are their products.

Ed writes:

Stick to your (the most simple) Logitech keyboard and rechargeble mouse. Works fine with me.

Ricardo says:

Logitech is the best, I used genius and some other brands, all have disadvantages. Logitech may not be the beautifull one, sure, but it runs smootly for years, I used both ball and optical mouse, and it is perfect. The only problem is with batteries as the optical mouse needs a replacement every one to two months, ball mouse about every year. If it doesn’t bug you, then go with Logitech.

Uncle Bob (not my New York uncle) advises:

I’m using a Logitech combo unit, have two as a matter of fact. I, too, thought my keyboard was dying only to discover that the location of the sending/receiving unit was the problem.

The main unit, which is located maybe 24 inches above the mouse and
keyboard, will stop working by being one inch or more back from its normal location. Apparently line of sight is a big thing.

The second unit, which is located on a portable work bench next to my desk seems to work when it wants to. But by moving it maybe an inch in any direction all is well. This unit will work five or six feet from the base as long as it is in line of sight.

Hope that helps. Both are Logitech mx700 sets. And the keyboards lose
the signal before the mouse on both.

I did try moving the base closer. It still won’t play nice.

John shares a lot of great information:

I can appreciate the quandary you’re in. We just don’t think about keyboard and mice until they don’t work or cause problems. Personally I just don’t care for wireless keyboards or mice, but then there are times that I boot my computer with an old DOS boot disk, too, because I want access to true DOS and not the newer version of virtual DOS in newer OSes like Win 2K or XP.

Over the years I’ve tried many keyboards thinking, “Heck a keyboard is a keyboard, right?” Not so. Those $10 keyboards last about a year or less until keys start sticking or getting stiff. The spendier keyboard like IBM are better, but their design is limited as are the features. Now we have the more spendier ones like Logitech which I didn’t care for.

I bit the bullet and tried a keyboard from the Evil Empire in Redmond. I love it so much that I bought a second one to take to work where I did tech support and did a lot of typing while I was talking. These things are just about bulletproof and there are no software conflicts like with some other brands. I use the no longer available Internet Keyboard Pro and probably will until either me or it die.

Microsoft Digital Media Pro keyboard

…I recommend this highly. It’s got programmable buttons but you can ignore them. The keyboard is just one rugged, good feeling piece of equipment and it looks good with its modern black color scheme. The durability of Microsoft’s keyboard is tops in my book as I’ve put ‘em through years of hard use because I’m more of a hunt-and-pecker than a typist.

My MS keyboard has survived several years of smoke and slops especially at work where it’s a open environment with three shifts of people using that keyboard 24/7 we can’t smoke, but I’ve gotten baloney out from between the keys at times. Dependable and good feeling is all I can say about the better MS keyboards.

I can’t offer very much input regarding mice though other than the same software issues for non MS mice as I use a Microsoft four button Intellimouse Trackball Explorer and I know you’re not a button person and a trackball is a highly personal preference thing. The best thing I can offer there is play with the mice in the store. I recommend the optical type without the ball, again preferably Microsoft.

What usually fails on cheaper mice are the microswitches for the buttons that might require repeated clicking to get them to work or the real killer where you get a double click instead of a single click, that’s something that really drives me nuts and kills productivity big time. The key is to find a mouse you like the feel of in your hand as you work with it and how easy it is to operate the buttons without looking. A good pointing device should be almost intuitive take a look at…

The basic Microsoft® IntelliMouse® 3.0 or The more advanced Microsoft® Wheel Mouse Optical 1.1.

I think the feel, dependability and longevity of these products will be what you need and make your life easier. Hopefully my suggestions help pave the way for you to improve your computing experience and minimize problems.

Got a comment? Still open for opinions, but not for comment spam.

As a result of the Back up, back up, back up! entry, several have asked what and how to back up stuff on a personal computer since the article focused on business computers.

Backup on business computers is typically not the user’s concern unless it’s a small business. A business should have a policy in place for managing backups especially due to Sarbanes – Oxyley.

Four options for backing up:

* External hard drive

* CD-RW (CD rewriteable) drive

* Tape

* Network server

Two options for what to back up:

* Everything

* Data files (.doc, .xls, .db, .ppt, .txt, etc.)

Personally, I use an external hard drive (this is a 120 gig hard drive, they also have 20 gig, 40 gig, 60 gig, and 80 gig available. I suggest getting one that is 20 gigs bigger than your hard drive.). It saved me when my computer had to be reformatted a few months ago. Typically, the hard drive is supposed to be rebootable and load everything back exactly as it was before the crash.

Obviously, that didn’t happen. It worked out for the best because some of my system files were bad. The hard drive still had my data files and programs. First, I referred to my latest copy from Belarc Advisor. This is a free program that lists all the applications on your computer. Since I don’t have a CD of every program I use, this was handy.

Using this list, I reloaded all applications first starting with the most important working down to the least important. It takes time to load everything, so you won’t want to reload everything in one sitting.

As soon as an application was reloaded, I copied all of its data files from the external hard drive back on the computer. I try to keep all of my data files in as minimal folders as possible. That is where My Documents, My Music, and My Photos comes in handy, but I hate those names. For the most part, I have /docs, /media (with subfolders for music and photos), /sites (for Web-related docs).

Keeping data files in as few folders as possible makes it easier to keep them organized and to find them when you need to restore data.

Programs like Norton’s Ghost, AlohaBob, and NTI Backup Now are useful for creating and managing back ups.

Using a RW-CD and tape back up are also viable solutions. I prefer the external hard drive since I don’t have to use an external media like a tape or CD. No sitting around and waiting for the CD or tape to fill up and inserting the next one.

Thumb drives (portable hard drives) are helpful, but typically can’t hold enough if you have as much data as I do. It’s great for critical data and data that you need at all times.

When buying a USB drive, make sure you have USB 2.0 not 1.1 as most the drives require 2.0.

At a minimium, back up your data files – the products of your work. Have a copy of these file somewhere other than your hard drive. Ideally, I’d like to back up my data on a network server because:

* if my house were on fire (ptpthpthpth), the files are safe on a server located somewhere else.

* if the computer goes crazy and ruins everything in its path including the back up hardware, the files are safe on a server.

However, storage is not cheap enough for personal use just yet. I am sure it’s one of the future options we can expect to become a regular part of safe computing.

Next question?

This is not your typical lost data story. I was a good girl and I kept my files on the network drive just like the company recommended. The only thing I put on my hard drive was junk files – things that wouldn’t bother me if the hard drive crashed. But not on the network drive. The drives are backed up and even my PC has a local back up program. Can you see where this is going?

On Wednesday, August 25, I accessed my work from the network drive as always. I kept copies of my time report and my daily activities there. Since I was going to be out on August 26 for surgery, I saved everything and did the usual end of day sign out routine.

I returned to work on Wednesday, September 1 and accessed the drive through my ‘Favorites’ and got an error message. Thought nothing of it — figured the network was down or something. Eventually, I went into File Explorer and accessed my private network drive from there. Ah ha! They moved me to a new server. Fine, fine. Whatever.

Not fine! On that drive were two folders: /windows and /log. That’s it. Nothing else. I opened a ticket. Turned out the data wasn’t migrated from the old to the new server. Thankfully, they kept archived data for 30 days, so the ticket should take care of that.

Thursday, I went home early. My surgery wore me out after half a day. Friday, September 3, I had to go to the ER and ended up not returning to work until October 5. I checked the drive and nothing changed. I checked the ticket and it was closed! According to the ticket, the problem was resolved. My foot! I immediately contacted support and explained the ticket wasn’t resolved.

He asked for permission to remote control my PC. By all means. I watched him do all the things I had attempted. He passed the ticket to a specific group. I kept checking on the ticket and emailing the contact. I heard stuff like it’s past 30 days so it may not be archived. Well, hey, I reported the problem within five days of the last time it worked! Why wasn’t it properly resolved while I was out?

If you work for support or have worked for them – don’t get me wrong, I am married to a guy who has worked in it and managed it. I’ve lost serious data here.

Lesson learned? I should’ve backed up the data onto my hard drive. If I had, then all would be cool. What are the chances of losing the network data AND hard drive data? Wait, don’t answer that.

Back up early and back up often. Oh, and vote, too!

For a long time, we couldn’t get Paul’s laptop and my desktop to see each other. Or rather, his laptop could not see my PC, but I could see his. The desktop has been difficult about sharing and obviously didn’t learn one of the first rules in school: share with others. It took a hard drive reformatting to finally get it working. Before the reformatting, we tried all the solutions and gave up. So I shared files with my laptop by emailing them or using the thumb drive. Not too convenient.

The solution depends on each set up as there a lot of variables at play. One work around might work for Group A, but not for Group B. Here are a few things to try to force the computers to share and play nice.

Microsoft KB Article 308007 covers troubleshooting a home network including file and printer sharing. We love the printer sharing as we no longer have to hook a laptop to a printer. Now, if Paul would hook the color printer to the network so we can also do color printing.

HomeNetHelp has a tutorial with screen shots for those who are having trouble finding other computers. It covers the ‘search computer’ (Microsoft KB article) command and ‘manually adding a network place’ (Microsoft KB article).

If the firewall is on, it’s possible the necessary ports are not open. Microsoft’s instructions for manually opening ports.

If one computer can see others, but the others can’t see the computer… make sure the workgroup names are the same. If you’re using a router and DSL or cable with DHCP, try turning off the power to the router and modem… wait a few seconds and turn it back on. Still not working? Turn off the firewall, if it’s running (By default, Windows’ firewall blocks the ports necessary for file sharing.). You can also try uninstalling and reinstalling TCP/IP.

Cyber Tech Help and Annoyances.org have many messages related to networking covering a variety of problems and solutions.

You could have everything set correctly and still have problems. The issue could be a matter of changing the network card. If PC A has 123 network card and PC B has 456 network card, try buying a 123 network card and replacing PC B’s network card with 123. Some network cards play better with their own kind. Shameful.

Microsoft TechNet explains the changes to Windows after installing SP2. The link takes you to the network protection section.

This message popped up a lot when we were trying to network the computers: “Workgroup Name is not accessible. You may not have permission to use this network resource.” It was almost as bad as ?reener (error message) from my first computer, an Apple II+.
If you can’t access shared files and folders or browse computers in a network group, check out Microsoft KB 318030.

If you had another problem and resolved it that’s not listed here, post it in the comments so others may have the resource. Thanks for helping.

Shopping for a laptop is overwhelming because of the numerous choices. No one can tell you what you need or don’t need, except maybe your spouse, parent, kid, local geek, or know-it-all who knows you. But it’s still good to know a few things about buying a laptop. An educated customer is a happy customer, right?

Most important question when starting this research: do you need a laptop? If you need a combo desktop / laptop, you can get a laptop with a docking station.

A common question is whether or not to get one with wireless. The question to you — are you going to use it? Will you have places to wirelessly connect with? Remember, when you have a wireless laptop, it has to connect to a hub or Wi-Fi (like Starbucks or a cell phone). Some hotels are starting to set up wireless and others requiring plugging in. If you buy a laptop without wireless and change your mind, you can add it later with a card. Only difference is it won’t be built-in. Not a big deal. Mine is not built-in.

FYI: Most laptops come with a 10/100 Ethernet NIC built-in.

For me, I have a cheap dial-up account with a national service. Good thing because I used it in the hospital. Not every place has wireless or free wireless (Starbucks isn’t free, or at least, not all locations from what I understand). So before I travel, I look up the service’s local numbers of where I am going so I’ll have them.

As for what model — you’ll get different answers from everyone. People love and hate Dells. Love and hate IBMs. What makes Dell different is that you can pick and choose what items you want on your laptop. IBM has a good reputation. Of course, Macs are nice, if you want to go the Apple way. Buying a refurbished laptop is cool. We have two of them in our house and we’re happy with ‘em. Saved a bit of money, too.

Screen. Picking the right screen is based on graphical need. I got a nice wide one, but my laptop be heavy, dude. I don’t travel much, so weight isn’t an issue. When I do travel, the weight of the laptop isn’t a big deal because I benefit from the video memory more than the weight.

The video card is built into the motherboard, just like a lot of desktops. What you have to watch with a laptop is make sure you get the video you want. If you are going to use graphic intensive programs, then go for more video memory. In the past laptops were not geared toward graphic intense applications. Then the DVD came along and changed that.

A screen is not as replaceable to interchangeable like a harddrive, a wireless card, or a DVD drive. I invest more in the screen so it lasts longer since everything else can be upgraded or replaced.

How often do you plan to lug it around? Believe me. No matter how light the laptop feels, it’s a bag of bricks when you’ve walked with it all day at a conference. That’s why I have a backpack case for my laptop. Much easier for long treks with the laptop. So weight didn’t get a priority with me.

A laptop is useless without an operating system and software. Before we get into details. There is a snag. If you are buying from a major reseller (IBM, Dell, HP, Compaq, etc.) It is going to come with an operating system, whether you like it or not. This is due to their licencing agreements with Microsoft. If this is not an issue, here are the considerations.

Do you want it to come with it or do you have licensed software you can load on it? When buying a computer with the operating system and bonus software, remember you don’t get books or separate CDs loaded with the applications. Some companies provide CDs for using when you have to reformat a computer and these programs will load back up. Some people don’t like this and prefer to buy the applications separately.

This is a suggested process for shopping for a laptop:

* Decide what you must have and write those down.
* Search for products that have these things.
* Search for and read reviews on the finalists.
* Narrow down the list as much as possible (one to three items) to the ones you will be happy with buying.
* Comparison shop for the best offer.